Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

This page will be continually updated over the coming month.  If you would like to see a questions answered then please let me know.

 

 

When do I start trimming foals’ hooves?

To assist continued healthy hoof care throughout a horses life, foals should be handled as soon as they are born. Part of this is picking up the foals feet, tapping the hoof and ensuring the handling of feet is a positive experience.  Foals are born with pointed feet that aid with breaking the placenta as well as the delivery process.  After the foal is born, these pointed feet become a liability and can impede break-over (toe rolling over when stepping) in front of the hoof.  This can cause the hoof to break-over either to the outside or inside causing the foal to become pigeon toed (toed in) or splayed footed (toed out).  A foal can also be born with these types of deviations already formed.

Without early intervention before the bones of the foal are ‘set’ (growth plates set around one year of age), trying to correct such deviations can cause undue stress to the musculoskeletal system.

While veterinary advice is always recommended, by working with a professional trimmer on a regular basis in a timely manner, proper leg and hoof structure can be built in the foal.

The key here is the earlier the better and to make any alterations slowly and slightly in the first year of a foal’s life. Remember, the most good can be done before the foal is one year old; so DON’T WAIT!

 

What is Thrush and how do I treat it?

Do you smell something awful when you pick out the hooves and/or can you see black mucky goo found in the small crevices of the frog?  If yes then most likely you are smelling a Thrush affected hoof.  Thrush is commonly thought to be due to a fungus but research has found that is is an anaerobic (air not required) bacterial infection.  Typically it infects around the sides of the frog (collateral grooves) and in the centre of the widest part of the frog (central sulcus).  Thrush can cause the frog to become tender and subsequently lameness in the foot.

There are a number of things an owner can do to help keep their horses hooves thrush free.  These include;

  • Allow the horse to self-clean the sole of the hoof through correct trimming.

  • Allow air to the collateral groves and sulcus of the frog through regularly picking out the hooves.

  • Allow the horse to move freely in the open to enable it to self-clean its hoof.   The motion of the horse hoof helps expel materials wedged in the hoof (when the trimming allows this).  The hooves can not do this when stalled.

  • Treat the hoof as recommended by your trimmer / veterinarian

There are many treatments for Thrush. I recommend the following once the area has been prepared by your trimmer (can be varied to suit);

  • Day 1:  Spray with Betadine® thoroughly

  • Day 2:  Soak/Flush with Apple cider vinegar

  • Day 3:  Spray with Tea tree oil solution

  • Day 4:  Repeat each day for 10 days at least then treat weekly until grown out

Notes:

  • Tea tree oil - Melaleuca Alternifolia (antiseptic and anti-fungal oil), mix few drops in water

  • Betadine, mix with water 10:1

Are dark hooves better than white hooves?

This has to be the most frequently asked question.  I asked a leading Veterinary scientist (Dr. R Bowker) who specialises in this field and he advised that there is no difference apart from the lack of pigment.  In my experience, it can be easier to see things like bruises on a white foot and maybe this is how this myth began.

The following is a quote directly from 'The Structure and Function of the Equine Hoof Wall' [Part II: Hoof Mechanics, Pigmentation p. 147] Thesis by Dr. D Leach in 1980

Pigmentation

Pigmentation has been traditionally implicated as an important factor in the durability and strength of horses hooves (Dollar, 1989; Wiseman, 1973)*.  However, Dinger et al (1973) did not find significant differences in penetration hardness between pigmented and nonpigmented hooves from the same animal and Weiser et al (1965) did not find differences in the chemical composition of pigmented and unpigmented hooves.  Miyaki et al (1974) reported that there was not a significant difference in water content of pigmented and unpigmented hooves.

Only Butler (1976) has attempted, although unsuccessfully, to measure the ability of white and black hooves to resist abrasion.

Indirect evidence that the strength of pigmented and unpigmented hoof wall material does not differ is shown in horses with both black and white portions of the hoof wall.  If these portions were substantially different in strength a shear force would be produced between them when the wall was subjected to stress, thus, theoretically, predisposing to cracks and buckling in this portion of the wall.  However these breakdowns are rarely seen at this black-white junction.

Further to this scientific study is a paragraph in Dr. Doug Butler's highly revered book 'The principles of Horseshoeing' (1976 p.346) where he writes "Symptom - white, black, or alternating black and white pigment in the hoof wall and sole.  Sometimes white pigment is associated with a defect such as shelly or seedy feet; however, there are sound and unsound feet of either color.  Cause - congenital.  Treatment - treat the conditions as you find them, don't worry about color."

 

What does the brand on a Standardbred mean?

Even though this is not a foot related question it does come up a lot and so I thought that I would include it to break up the hoof questions.  Australia uses the 'alpha angle' symbols.  The brand on the off-side neck is made up of two lines.  From 1987 there is two lines.  On the top line an 'S' (for Standardbred) followed by the symbol for the State then year of birth.  The second line is the registration number.  The symbols are as follows (symbols in blue) and I have included the diagram for ease of remembering. 

 

Terms of Service.

Payment & Appointments:

  • Payment is by cash only upon completion of the trim.  No accounts

  • Trims are generally conducted regardless of the weather conditions.  Protection from the rain would be appreciated if available

  • Horses to be either caught and tied up, contained in a small holding yard or stabled prior to arrival

Client responsibilities:

  • Provide a safe, clean, flat and open working environment free from debris

  • Keep children, pets, foals and other horses at a safe distance while the trim is in progress

  • Provide competent assistance for the duration of the trim while holding the horse.  Horses are not to be tied up for the trimming.  Regular clients with well handled  horses may have the option to be absent

  • Rugs are to be removed for the duration of the trim

  • Handler is wearing appropriate closed footwear for safety

  • Horses are not fed treats or have feed/hay available while the trim is in progress

  • Horses are used to being handled and can confidently pick up their feet

  • Horses are free of Ringworm and other easily transmissible diseases

 

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